A Brief History of Lipstick
By Marji Soofi
Ancient Sumerian men and women were possibly the first to invent and wear lipstick, approximately 5,000 years ago. They crushed gemstones and used them to decorate their faces, mainly on the lips and around the eyes.
From 3000 BC to 1500 BC women in the Old World (Mesopotamia, South Asia, Persia, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, and Ancient Egypt) applied red tint to their lips for beauty. Though Ancient Egyptians wore lipstick to show social status rather than for beauty alone. Egyptians like Cleopatra crushed bugs to create red color for the lips. To achieve a pearlized effect crushed fish scales were added to the mixture.
During the Islamic Golden ages, the 8th – 13th centuries, an Arab physician (Abulcasis) invented solid lipsticks, which were perfumed sticks rolled and pressed into special molds.
Until late 16th century, lip coloring was banned by the Christian church. They thought that lip coloring was connected with the Satanic rituals, and was only reserved for lowest classes of people, such as prostitutes. It was not until the time of Queen Elizabeth, that bright red lips and a stark white face became fashionable. At that time, lipstick was made from a blend of beeswax and red dye from plants. Only upper class women and male actors wore makeup.
However in the 19th century respectable women did not wear cosmetics, and the use of makeup was associated with actors and prostitutes. Around the 1850s there were warnings of the dangers associated with the use of makeup due to the lead and vermilion that was used to make the products.
By the late 19th century, a French cosmetic company Guerlain started manufacturing lipsticks. The first commercial lipstick was invented in 1884, from deer tallow, Castor oil, and beeswax, covered in silk paper. Prior to this lipsticks were made at home.
By the early 20th century fashionable American women accepted lipstick as an important part of their daily and public attire. Famous American actress Sarah Bernhardt begun wearing lipstick in public. During that time, lipstick did not come in tube, but instead a pot and was applied with a brush.
In 1915 the first lipstick that was sold in cylinder metal containers was invented by Maurice Levy. Then in 1923 the cylinder swivel-up tube was patented by James Bruce Mason Jr. in Nashville, Tennessee. This invention made lipstick easy to apply.
By the 1930’s the rise of the photography made lipstick acceptable across Europe and North America. Also around this time Max Factor invented lip gloss lipstick.
The Second World War made lipstick scarce, because several of its essential ingredients were used in the war effort (petroleum and Castor oil). During those years, metal tubes were replaced by plastic and paper.
In the 1950’s American chemist Hazel Bishop created the first long lasting and non-smearing lipstick. At that time actresses Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor popularized dark red lips. Their influence, and new inventions by the companies Gala and Max Factor created new colors and trends.
Rock groups Ronettes and the Shirelles popularized white lipsticks in the 60’s, but the majority of female population preferred darker or more colorful tones. By that time, lipstick and high heels were one of the biggest examples of femininity.
In 1990 another form of lip color, a wax-free, semi-permanent liquid formula, was invented. Lipstick finishes became semi-matte. Shades of brown were very stylish. These shades were inspired by several shows such as “Friends”. In the late 1990s and into the 21st century, pearl shades became very trendy. Lipsticks were no longer matte or semi-matte; they were now shinny, shimmery, and opalescent.
Around 2015 and 2016 liquid lipstick, which applies like a gloss but dries matte, became fashionable with brands such as Anastasia Beverly Hills. Its most common form comes in a tube, applied with an applicator wand.
Lipstick also has many variations including lip balms, glosses, crayons, pencils, liners, and stains. Balms and glosses tend to be more translucent and not as dark or vibrant.
Lipstick has had quite a journey from where it began to what we know and use today.